Pesticides and spraying

Mealy Bugs often confused with fungus

Identification of the problem

• Make sure you are buying the correct product for the problem, this generally means accurate identification of the pest or problem. Research the problem and then settle on a suitable remedy. For example:

  • Mealybug is very often confused for a fungus; applying a fungicide to the insects will have no effect.

  • Red Spider is a mite and not an insect, so normal insecticides have no effect on them (besides drowning a few).

  • The damage caused by Leafcutter bees is often confused with caterpillar or beetle damage.

• Before resorting to chemical controls explore what other options may be available to control the problem, this can range from simple "home remedies" such as using soap water solutions, horticultural oils, solutions of isopropyl alcohol and water, sticky traps, UV insect traps, simply washing the plant down with a jet of water, etc.

Buying a Pesticide

• Never, ever buy a chemical product in open or unmarked containers (this includes fertilizers) or products that are decanted into smaller containers. All registered chemical products will be labeled both in English and Arabic and should contain the Ministry Of Climate Change And Environment (MOCCAE) product registration number - the sale of decanted or unlabeled products is illegal.

• If you have bought a chemical product read the instructions and dilution rate, if you need to convert the instructions from metric to imperial (or vice versa) then double-check the calculation. Never assume the dilution rate, the same product could have different formulations and applications, and mixing rates.

• Never buy more pesticides than what you need. Find the smallest packaged quantity and get that. Most products have a very high dilution rate (1:100 or 1:1000), this means that even a tiny amount will go a long way. Some products don't store well, particularly in an uncontrolled temperature environment.

Preparation and mixing of pesticides

• Less is more. Never apply more than the specified rate at the specified intervals, some pesticides can be phytotoxic if the strength is more than what it should be. Using double the amount of a pesticide will not improve its effectiveness. Most pesticides require repeat applications to kill off any insect eggs that may hatch after the application - most insect eggs are impervious to insecticides.

• Always mix pesticides with bottled water sources, chemical pesticides are formulated to be mixed with pH neutral (pH of 7) water, if the pH of the water is over 8, the pesticide will be less effective.

• Use a "wetting agent" mixed in with the pesticide, there are commercial wetting agents available, but also using ordinary liquid washing soap (1ml per 1 liter of water), will break the surface tension of the spray mix and allow it to "stick" to the plant, leaf surface and the insects (which are normally hydrophobic), making the pesticide application much more effective.

• When mixing pesticides for application use rubber gloves, pesticides don't have to be ingested to be toxic, and some can be absorbed through the skin. Always take the proper safety precautions when spraying, and use gloves and safety goggles if need be.

• Always mix chemicals in a well-ventilated area!

Pesticide Application/ Spraying

• Never spray when it's windy or over midday, the best times to spray are early morning or late afternoon. Never spray when rain is forecast.

• Never "blanket spray" your garden, apply pesticides only to the affected areas; blanket spraying is indiscriminate and will affect the pests as well as any beneficial insects that you may have in the garden, many pesticides are also toxic to fish.

• Some pesticides may require follow-up applications to kill any insects that may have been in the egg stage of their lifecycle - for the most part, insect eggs are resistant to pesticide applications. Re-apply only as per the product directions, do not repeat the spray the next day as this can damage your plants.

• Pesticides (depending on the formulation) should be applied to the "point of run-off", this means spraying the affected area, covering the entire upper and lower leaf surface to the point that excess pesticide runs off of the leaves and onto the soil. At this point stop spraying - again, less is more.

• When you are finished spaying wash your spray equipment thoroughly with tap water and allow it to air dry before storing them; most spray pumps use rubber gaskets, and these can become brittle and damaged if the pesticide is stored in the container - besides the obvious safety issues of storing pesticides.

General and Safety Information

• Never take pesticide application lightly and become blase about measuring, checking, and general safety. While the products that are available in the local market are regulated, the majority of these are agricultural products and are normally applied by strained staff members using the correct safety equipment.

• Depending on the toxicity of the product, pets, and small children should not be allowed into the area (or over it in the case of turf applications) for at least 48 hours after the application. Most pesticides will degrade quickly in UV light/ bright sunlight.

• If you have no alternative, but to apply a pesticide to vegetables or edible crops (as opposed to an organic solution) then check the residual or with-holding period of the product; this will tell you after what period of time it will be safe to harvest and eat your fruits and vegetables.

• When you are finished spraying always ensure that any mixed pesticide that is left is poured into the open ground, never dispose of this in the sink or toilet.

• Always ensure that any pesticide concentrate is stored in a sealed, container in a cool space; don't store it in an unregulated temperature garage or store room as in summer the bottles can "weep" and noxious fumes can accumulate in these spaces. Always make sure that these are stored at height and out of the reach of young children.

• Don't spray household insecticides on your indoor or outdoor plants, these products are not formulated for plant use and often contain combinations of pesticides that may be phytotoxic to plants, besides this, they normally use propellants in the can; these can get very cold as they depressurize and can cause cold burns on plants, besides they may also be phytotoxic.